Voyage to the Bottom of the World

Text and Photos By Sally Cullen, MD

If you’ve ever read Endurance by Alfred Lansing, you may recognize the tale I’m alluding to.

His is the story of the ill-fated expedition to Antarctica led by the legendary British explorer Ernest Shackleton. It’s the ultimate adventure tale, almost beyond belief, of 28 men who survived against staggering odds in the bleakest and most horrific conditions imaginable. After months and months of camping on crumbling icebergs, subsisting on penguin meat and seal blubber, battling frostbite and toe amputations, they miraculously escaped their icy prison in three small boats, crossing the notoriously perilous Drake Passage amid gale-force winds and monstrous swells.

I am an adventurer to my core; my friends and family will readily attest to that. A deep wanderlust has led me to explore many exotic locales across six continents and too many countries to enumerate. From India to Iceland, New Zealand to Africa, Bali to Norway, and even the Galapagos Islands, I have roamed. Yet, despite my many expeditions, I had never ventured to either pole, nor had I journeyed further south than Bolivia in the Southern Hemisphere.

Thus, a journey to Antartica seemed an obvious choice — one of the last frontiers I had yet to explore. Yet surprisingly, it had never made my travel wish list for reasons I now struggle to understand. In my mind, the continent was a realm of frigid desolation, an endless expanse of ice and howling winds, devoid of life. So, when my twin sister and her friend proposed an expedition to this frozen world and invited to me to join, I hesitated. My aversion to cold and distaste for seasickness, coupled with the image of Shackleton’s sinking ship, gave me pause.

However, my love for penguins and my restless spirit drove me to say yes. We then invited our older sister to join our adventure on a cruise aboard the MS Amundsen — another name rich in Antarctic history as the first person to reach the South Pole. To say that I was mistaken —profoundly mistaken — about this icy continent is an understatement.

Antarctica is anything but bleak or lifeless; it vibrates with life and bursts with the most unfathomable colors and hues of blue. The penguins — thousands of Gentoo, Chinstrap, and Adelie penguins — swarmed the landscape alongside seals, whales and migratory birds, including the albatross. We crossed the Antarctic circle, listening to lectures, embarking on Zodiac tours, and kayaking amid icebergs. I suffered not a moment of seasickness nor a minute of boredom. It was, quite honestly, one of my favorite trips ever, made even more special by shaing it with my sisters (and honorary sister).

Let me share more about our 16-day cruise and the experiences that shaped it. Our fully hybrid ship, the MS Amundsen, was built in 2019 and tailor-made for expedition cruising. While it has the capacity to hold 500 passengers, our voyage catered to just 320, ensuring we never felt overcrowded. We were part of a smaller group of 16 wonderfully compatible travelers led by our knowledgable Chilean guide, Marco. Far from “roughing it,” we enjoyed a state-of-the-art science center, three restaurants, an infinity pool, two outdoor Jacuzzis and a large lounge. I was rarely cold as I packed layers of warm attire while the ship provided waterproof parkas and tall Muck boots—all inspected and cleaned before and after each landing. Some days it was actually warmer in Antarctica than in Sacramento!

Each day began with a bountiful buffet breakfast followed by a Zodiac (inflatable raft) cruise around isolated bays or landings to penguin colonies, with kayak tours interspersed. Visits to the penguin colonies were always the best and, despite the unpleasant smell, provided us with incredible opportunities to watch these adorable animals waddle around, pick up pebbles to impress their mate and carefully tend to their fuzzy little offspring. We were always instructed to maintain a respectful distance and never sit or even crouch due to the risk of contamination, especially from the Avian flu. Lunch was often followed by lectures from onboard scientists or expedition leaders with topics ranging from iconic Antarctica explorers to the effects of whaling and krill fishing on the fragile ecosystem. In my free time, I roamed the expansive decks, capturing landscape photographs of beautiful snow-capped mountains and pristine glaciers, always with an eye out for seals and penguins on floating icebergs. Dinner was a highlight — a delightful choice between a la carte options or a delicious buffet — followed by music and relaxation in the Exploration Lounge.

The ideal time to visit Antartica falls during its summer months (December-February), when the temperatures are milder and the daylight lasts longer. Our journey began with three days in Buenos Aires before an internal flight within Argentina to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Nestled along the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia is a quaint and picturesque town and a common departure point for Antarctic cruises. We spent two days crossing the surprisingly calm Drake Passage (which is variably referred to as either the Drake Shake or Drake Lake) before reaching the Antarctic Circle. It’s important to note that every itinerary is weather-dependent and adjusted daily by the ship’s captain and expedition leaders.

We were fortunate with remarkable weather, allowing us to cruise comfortably along the Antarctic Peninsula’s coast, stopping at exotic-sounding locations such as Red Rock Ridge, Blind Bay, Stonnington Island, Matha Strait, and Petermann, Cuverville, and Danco Islands. Each location had its own distinctive features, ranging from towering glaciers and World War II-era research stations to old whaling relics, lively penguin colonies or a volcanic beach alive with geothermal activity.

Being in good physical shape is crucial, as it requires strength and balance to navigate boarding and disembarking from Zodiac rafts, not to mention the agility needed to traverse rugged beaches. Indeed, travelers must secure a doctor’s approval before setting out on this adventure, as medical facilities can be days away. They call it the White Continent for a reason but trust me, it’s much more than just a realm of ice and glaciers — though those are undeniably stunning. This land is teeming with wonder and life, where fluffy penguin chicks waddle about, humpback whales feast on krill, and seals bask lazily on floating icebergs.

It was an otherworldly adventure that I never knew I wanted, yet now, can’t imagine missing. I hope my photographs inspire you to take the plunge and embark on this extraordinary journey to the bottom of the world. Happy travels!